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LED Series Resistor Calculator

Physics

The circuit

An LED holds its terminal voltage near a fixed forward drop no matter what current flows, so the series resistor takes whatever the supply has left over — and that leftover, divided by the resistance, is the current. Every panel below reads this one circuit.

Loads a complete worked example into every field.
Pick a colour for a typical forward voltage, or type your own from the datasheet.

R = (V_S − V_F) / I_F One LED, one resistor — the ordinary indicator circuit.

One LED's drop at its rated current, from the datasheet.

1

Single-LED mode fixes the string at one.

1

This mode drives a single string.
Transistor V_CE(sat), wiring — anything else in the loop.
IEC 60063 preferred values. E24 is the ordinary 5 % hobby range.
Drives the worst-case current window and the band count.
The physical part you intend to fit.
Fraction of the rating you allow the part to reach — 0.1 to 1. Half is the usual habit.
Optional, in mA. An AVR GPIO pin is about 20 mA; leave blank to skip the check.
0 to 10, applied to every readout and export.

Nearest E24 resistor

SafeSingle LED

150.000 Ω

Ideal value 150.000 Ω — the E24 part is +0.00 % off, giving 20.000 mA instead of 20.000 mA.

40.0 percent of the supply power reaches the LEDs; the rest heats the resistor.40%

of the supply power reaches the LEDs

Colour code for 150.000 Ω

Resistor colour bands: brown, green, brown, gold

1. Brown

2. Green

3. Brown

4. Gold

(4-band)

Voltage budget

LEDs: 2.000 V (40.0 %)

Resistor: 3.000 V (60.0 %) — burned as heat

Most of the power heats the resistor
Only 40.0 % of the supply power reaches the LEDs; the rest becomes heat in the resistor. Put more LEDs in each series string so their forward voltages soak up more of the rail, or switch to a switching constant-current driver, which does not burn the difference at all.
Tolerance window
A ±5.0 % resistor puts the current anywhere from 19.048 mA to 21.053 mA. Check the upper corner against the LED's absolute-maximum rating, not its typical rating.

Circuit

1 string of 1 LED, each string in series with its own 150 Ω resistor across a 5.0 V supply.5.0 V150 Ω

Each string carries its own resistor. LEDs never share one: two nominally identical LEDs differ slightly in forward voltage, the lower one hogs the current, runs hotter, drops even lower, and takes the whole load.

Voltage across resistor
3.000 V
Resistor power (each)
60.000 mW
LED power (total)
40.000 mW
Brightness of rated
100.0 %
QuantityValue
Total forward voltage2.000 V
Voltage across resistor3.000 V
Ideal resistance150.000 Ω
Actual LED current20.000 mA
Supply draw at the design point20.000 mA 100.000 mW
Supply draw with the fitted resistor20.000 mA 100.000 mW
LED power per string40.000 mW
Circuit efficiency40.000 %
Max LEDs in series on this rail2
Resistors needed1 × 150.000 Ω
Where a resistor stops being the answer
A series resistor sets the current by burning the surplus voltage, so its efficiency is fixed by the voltage budget alone — 40.0% here. That is perfectly fine for an indicator drawing tens of milliwatts. It stops being fine when the LED is a lighting part: at a watt or more the resistor wastes real power, and because a hot die's forward voltage falls, the current a fixed resistor passes rises as the LED warms up. Constant-current drivers exist because that feedback loop has no natural end.

About This Tool

LED Series Resistor Calculator – Sizing the Current-Limiting Resistor

An LED is a diode, not a resistor, and that single fact is why every LED circuit needs a current-limiting resistor. Above its turn-on point a diode's current climbs roughly exponentially with voltage, so the difference between a comfortable 20 mA and a destroyed junction can be a tenth of a volt. Put a resistor in series and the exponential becomes a straight line you can design with: the resistor absorbs whatever voltage the LEDs do not, and that surplus, divided by the resistance, is the operating current. This LED resistor calculator solves that relationship in every direction — resistance from current, current from a resistor you already own, or the supply voltage a fixed pair needs.

The formula behind the LED resistor

The whole calculation is Ohm's law applied to the leftover voltage:

R = (V_S − n × V_F) / I_F

where V_S is the supply voltage, V_F the forward voltage of one LED, n the number of LEDs chained in series and I_F the forward current you want. Drive one 2.0 V red LED at 20 mA from a 5 V rail and the resistor sees 5 − 2.0 = 3 V, so R = 3 / 0.020 = 150 Ω — which happens to be an E24 preferred value exactly, dissipating I²R = 0.060 W. Chain three 3.2 V blue LEDs on 12 V instead and the forward voltages add to 9.6 V, leaving 2.4 V for the resistor and calling for 120 Ω.

Series strings, parallel strings and why the distinction matters

LEDs in series share one current and add their forward voltages, so a single resistor controls the whole string — the most efficient arrangement, because every LED you add soaks up voltage that would otherwise be wasted as heat. LEDs in parallel do the opposite: they share a voltage and split the current, and each string needs its own resistor.

Never share one resistor between parallel LEDs
Two LEDs from the same reel are never quite identical. Behind a shared resistor the one with the lower forward voltage takes more current, runs hotter, and — because forward voltage falls as the die warms — drops lower still, taking even more. You get one bright LED, one dim one, and frequently one failure.

Preferred values, tolerance and the case for rounding up

Real resistors come in IEC 60063 E-series steps — E6, E12, E24, E48, E96 — so the ideal figure almost never exists as a part. Four LEDs at 15 mA behind a 9 V supply want 320 Ω; the nearest E24 value is 330 Ω. The calculator reports both the nearest value and the smallest preferred value abovethe ideal, and the second is usually the better pick. Current against resistance is a hyperbola: steep on the low side, flat on the high side. A resistor 10 % under the ideal adds about 11 % to the current, while one 10 % over removes only about 9 % — and since perceived brightness changes far more slowly than current, the extra ohms cost almost nothing visible while buying real margin against the LED's absolute-maximum rating. Add the resistor's own tolerance and a ±5 % 150 Ω part puts the current anywhere between roughly 19.0 mA and 21.1 mA.

Power, efficiency and the limits of the resistor approach

The resistor dissipates P = I² × R, and a real part should never run at its full nameplate rating — allow a derating factor of about 0.5 so it neither drifts in value nor scorches the board. Efficiency is the more interesting number: the fraction of supply power that reaches the LEDs is simply n × V_F / V_S, independent of the current entirely. One 2 V LED on a 12 V rail is 17 % efficient; five of them in series on the same rail is 83 %. That is the whole argument for longer strings.

When to switch to a constant-current driver
Beyond roughly 100 mA, or with any lighting-class LED, a resistor stops being adequate for a second reason: forward voltage falls as the die heats, so a fixed resistor passes more current as the LED warms up, which heats it further. A driver regulates current directly and has no such feedback loop.

Driving LEDs from a microcontroller pin

A GPIO pin has a current budget of its own — commonly 20 mA per pin on an AVR, and a much lower total across the package — so the tool takes an optional source current limit and warns when the circuit exceeds it. One indicator LED is fine directly on a pin; six of them, or anything drawing tens of milliamps each, needs a transistor or MOSFET switching the LEDs from the raw supply. Remember that a saturated transistor adds its own drop of a few tenths of a volt to the loop, which the resistor calculation has to account for.

Planning an array

Given a supply, an LED type and a total count, there are only a handful of workable series-parallel layouts, and the tool ranks them. Twenty-four 2 V LEDs on 12 V are best arranged as five in series across four strings: each string needs a 100 Ω resistor, 83 % of the power reaches the LEDs, and only four resistors are needed instead of twenty-four. Note the trade-off the ranking exposes — that layout strands four LEDs, while a less efficient four-in-series split uses all twenty-four. Leaving at least half a volt of headroom is what keeps the current stable against normal supply and forward-voltage variation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the LED Series Resistor Calculator free?

Yes, LED Series Resistor Calculator is totally free :)

Can I use the LED Series Resistor Calculator offline?

Yes, you can install the webapp as PWA.

Is it safe to use LED Series Resistor Calculator?

Yes, any data related to LED Series Resistor Calculator only stored in your browser (if storage required). You can simply clear browser cache to clear all the stored data. We do not store any data on server.

How does this LED resistor calculator work?

Everything you type is normalised to volts, amperes and ohms before any arithmetic happens, and the whole page is then derived from one unrounded current. The forward voltages of the LEDs in a string are added, that total is subtracted from the supply to get the voltage the resistor has to absorb, and dividing by your target current gives the resistance. That figure is snapped to the nearest value in the E-series you chose, and the current, the power, the efficiency, the brightness and the tolerance window are all recomputed from the resistor you would actually fit — never from the ideal one and never from a value rounded for display.

Why can't I just connect an LED straight to the battery?

Because an LED is not a resistor. Above its turn-on voltage the current through a diode rises roughly exponentially with voltage, so a tenth of a volt too much can double the current. Wire a 2 V LED directly across a 3 V cell and the only thing limiting the current is the cell's internal resistance and the LED's own bulk resistance — usually enough to destroy the junction in seconds, or to cook it slowly if the cell is weak. The series resistor turns a steep exponential into a gentle straight line: it absorbs the surplus voltage and fixes the operating point.

Should I pick the nearest standard resistor or the next one up?

Round up when in doubt. The tool shows both, because the nearest preferred value can sit below the ideal figure and pass more current than you asked for. Current against resistance is a hyperbola, so it is steep on the low side and flat on the high side: a resistor 10 % under the ideal adds about 11 % to the current, while one 10 % over removes only about 9 %. Since the visible brightness of an LED changes far less than the current does, the extra resistance costs you almost nothing you can see and buys real margin against the die's absolute-maximum rating.

Why does each parallel LED need its own resistor?

Because two LEDs from the same reel are never quite identical. Put them in parallel behind one shared resistor and the one with the slightly lower forward voltage takes more than its share of the current, runs hotter, and — since forward voltage falls as the die warms — drops lower still, taking even more. The result is one bright LED, one dim one, and often one failure. Giving each string its own resistor breaks that feedback loop, because each resistor sets its own string's current independently. The schematic in this tool always draws one resistor per string for exactly that reason.

What resistor power rating do I need?

The resistor dissipates I² × R, which for an ordinary indicator LED is tens of milliwatts — well inside the 1/4 W parts most people own. The tool applies a derating factor as well, defaulting to 0.5, because a resistor run at its full nameplate rating gets hot enough to drift in value, discolour the board and shorten its own life. So a part dissipating 60 mW at a 0.5 derating needs a rating of at least 120 mW, which means the smallest catalogue part that fits is 1/8 W. Multiply the LED count and the current and that arithmetic changes quickly: a six-string 100 mA array can easily need a 1 W part.

When should I use a constant-current driver instead?

When the wasted power or the drift starts to matter. A resistor's efficiency is fixed by the voltage budget — put one 2 V LED on a 12 V rail and 83 % of the power heats the resistor no matter what you do. Chaining more LEDs per string fixes that, up to the point where the rail runs out of headroom. Beyond about 100 mA, or with any lighting-class LED, the second problem takes over: forward voltage falls as the die heats, so a fixed resistor lets the current climb as the LED warms, which heats it further. A constant-current driver regulates the current directly and has neither problem.